HānGI HeaVen at tUaHIWI

Reflecting on the final segment in a mammoth series of kai features, our road trips have taken me to 18 precious whare across Te Waipounamu. I remain grateful for the aroha and hospitality extended to our small team of Phil, Adrienne, myself – and on occasion my own tamariki – as we foraged about in the most humble of marae kitchens, gathering up an ensemble of delectable local foodstuffs to ensure a delicious feed for our esteemed kaumātua.

To the many aunties and uncles, cuzzies and extended rūnanga extras who joyfully and unselfishly jumped in to help, many thanks.

Carving time with (left to right) Campbell Pitama, Jason Dell, Arthur Flutey and Frank Williams.

Today's final cook-up at Tuahiwi was another great success. Our banquet of hāngi-cooked rosemary mutton, horopito and oregano rubbed pork, cinnamon, ginger and orange stuffed chickens, succulent lemon-scented whole salmon and the traditional vegetables like pumpkin, carrots, potatoes and kumara were enjoyed and supplemented with platters full to the brim of kai moana, reminding us all of the special bond that exists among whānau on the marae.

I was most fortunate to have more than a generation of experienced "old hands" to cook up this magnificent feast at Tuahiwi. Thanks Grenville and Arapata.

Rather than try to tell those more senior than me how to prepare such a feast, I have elected with these final recipes to simply share the subtle but delicious little additions I contributed to the main delicacies enjoyed by all on the day.

I trust you've enjoyed following our tiki tour of kai stories. Kia wakea mai, kia kaha!


Jason Dell (Ngāi Tahu/Ngāti Wheke)
Chef and culinary adventurer
(now based in Singapore).

tWO WHOLe SaLMOn FILLeD WItH LeMOn, FenneL anD LaVenDer HOneY

Ingredients
2 whole salmon
(approx 1.5-2kg each)
2 tbsp lavender honey (or substitute with a floral honey of your choice)
4 lemons cut in half, then sliced thickly
2 bunches of fresh fennel or dill roughly chopped
2 white onions, chopped small

Brush the honey all over inside the belly of the cleaned salmon. The sweetness from the honey helps counteract any smokiness absorbed from the hāngi. Combine the chopped lemon, fennel and white onion. Season well with salt and pepper, and then pocket the fish. Carefully lay the salmon flat and wrap well in tinfoil. Reserve for placing near the top of the hāngi.

FOUr BOneLeSS LaMB SHOULDerS

Ingredients
1 cup of fresh rosemary, leaves only, chopped roughly
1/2 cup of fresh chopped / minced garlic
4 tsp of crushed black pepper
2 tbsp salt
4 tsp olive oil to moisten

It's important to salt the meat and baste with a little of the olive oil, then rub all the seasonings into the lamb. It is also important to let the flavours develop in the fridge a day ahead. Roll the butterflied lamb shoulder up like a swiss roll after adding the seasoning, then carefully tie with butcher's twine, or cover with netting as I did.

SIX WHOLe CHICKenS WItH CInnaMOn, MInt, GInGer anD OranGe

Ingredients
  zest of 10 oranges,
zest of four lemons
3 tsp cinnamon powder
2 tbsp vegetable oil
6 white onions chopped
1 cup fresh mint leaves
3 knobs fresh root ginger minced
10 oranges skinned, cut into quarters
2 bunches spring onions
6 tbsp red chilli jam or similar

Rinse the inside of the birds out well, then sprinkle some salt into the cavity of the birds. Next, combine the zests and the cinnamon and moisten with a little orange juice and a splash of vegetable oil. Rub this all over the outside of the birds. Next, combine the chopped onions, the mint, ginger, the orange segments, spring onions and the chilli jam. Divide evenly between the six chickens, and pocket each bird well. Sprinkle the outside of each bird with a little more salt, then wrap the chickens in foil ready for the pit.

tWO WILD POrK SHOULDer rUBBeD WItH HOrOPItO, GarLIC anD OreGanO

Horopito is a native bush pepper that was used by Māori for medicinal properties, often stomach ache and toothache. Horopito pepper is commercially available in New Zealand from specialty stores. It has an unusually smoky flavour.

I cut little pockets in these giant cuts of pork and heavily rubbed a mixture of horopito pepper blended with salt, fresh chopped oregano and a little garlic into the joint.